I will never tire of the criss-crossing alleyways and laneways of Hiroshima, neon-lit with never-ending vertical signage that advertises bar-upon-bar-upon-eatery-upon-bar. So many cafes and drinkeries are hidden away on the myriad floors of buildings, with nothing but an oft-incomprehensible sign out the front to denote its existence. It is fun to stray from the map and pick a place lucky-dip-style. On the weekend I visited the Old Retro cafe, tucked away on the 4th floor of Namikidorii and enjoyed its cosy atmos: all mismatched second-hand furniture and cute lamps in orange and wine-bottle green; a very frayed-around-the-edges vibe. I had a "bread setto" lunch for 700 yen which included two chunky sandwiches with four different salads (including a scrambled tofu salad) and a drink. Then to Primal - a hip cafe-bar - for "keki and kohi setto" for 600 yen. I had muddy chocolate cake - yum!On Saturday I took a turn on the trancefloor at Ultimate. The place was bethronged with androgynous pretty-boy fops donning tight leather jackets and floppy-fringed hair ala His Brettness; fellow gals were few and far between. Most punters spent the evening adjusting their hair and leaning against the wall contemplating a cigarette with a haughty expression. I pranced about with another woman who proclaimed herself "hitori" (alone) and on whom I practised my alcohol-infused Nihon-go, and we were both amused to watch two dancing girls take to the stage, all a-sparkle in sequinned pink bikinis, and gloriously blonde thanks to rapunzelesque wigs, with make-up reminiscent of Kabuki actors. All the swish boys extinguished their fags and immediately clamoured around the scantily-clad dancing girls who shimmied on the stage for a good part of the evening. It was rather diverting to watch boys who looked like girls watching girls who looked like boys who looked like girls. Alack! A certain Blur song is evident here. I was happy dancing to Astrix wearing the little black jacket that Miss Maz left behind and was seized by memories of Miss M and doofs of long ago ...
After a night of psytrance and girl-boys and vodkas, I hurtled home in the pouring rain through the maze-like night district, dodging drunk pedestrians and drunk cyclists and crawling taxis, and then along the river through parks where my poor little red racer, as well as my purple coat, were bespattered with mud. It is a fun thing to bike it home in the dark, with the river gleaming on one side and the trees all dripping with rain on the other. Joy!