Marvellous Matsue

Had a spiffing four-day tour of Sir S's new town, Matsue, located in Shimane Prefecture near the Japan Sea.

A Country Jaunt
In Hirosh I hopped on an omnibus for a rollicking three-hour journey and along the way admired the view of the autumnal countryside through which I passed. What I saw through the smudged glass was the embodiment of all that is evocative and deliciously nostalgic about Japan. Dotted over rolling hills were quaint houses painted white and intersected with black wooden timber, reminiscent of Tudoresque cottages in England if it were not for the exotic, curled Chinese roofs that crowned these charming abodes. Sparrows flittered among the trees and a drift of red dragonflies could be seen hovering above the working farmers. The rice fields swayed with blades of pure gold - no longer the moist green of summer - and in the fields laboured old men and women, hanging out the crops in their long yellow tresses on wooden racks in the sun; or tying together sheafs of the stuff into wigwam haystacks no bigger than a small child. The working men wore straw hats and the women donned white cotton bonnets that tied under the chin. Many tended autumn bonfires, and the curl of smoke could be seen from far off, and the scent of burnt wood permeated the omnibus and reminded me of my Northern hemisphere childhood: pine needles, ashes and Guy Fawks.

Once in Matsue, I was greeted with the splendid sight of Lake Shinji - a vast expanse of water, the other side lost on the horizon - where the setting sun cast copper hues on the surface and a small island dotted with crooked trees was set against the light, an intricate silhouette. Then, after a sweet reunion with Sir S at the station, we commenced our tour of the city. Sir S pointed out the delightful patisserie and coffee house, The Little Mermaid, and at the first opportunity we purchased ourselves some bicycles (claret red for me; black for S).

Matsue has some impressive places to visit, including ...

Matsue Castle
First stop was the 400-year-old Matsue Castle. Set upon a high spot, walled off and moated, the castle was merely a fancy watch-tower to intimidate any nosy enemies, but this does not make it any less impressive. So much hard, heavy beams of wood, and so many steep stairs! A nightwatchman must have had the buttocks of an Australian Olympic swimmer: hard as steel, with the ability to sell miracle health drinks.* Many cherry trees are in its gardens, so it will be a delightful hanami spot in spring. Also there are boat rides upon the moat for those who are partial to splashing around in bobbling watercraft.

Writer Lafcadio Hearn's Museum and Residence
Lafcadio Hearn was a Greek writer who was one of the first Westerners to introduce Japanese culture to the West through his many books on Japan. He moved to Japan in the late 1800s, married a Japanese woman and became a citizen of Japan, changing his name to Koizumi Yakumo. His writings are insightful, whimsical and serene. His book Exotics and Retrospectives captures the charm of Japan: the insect-music market, old children's songs and games, and much of rural life. He lived in Matsue for a year during his time in Japan. A museum celebrates his life and works, and next door is his residence, a former samurai house. Located in the "samurai section" of Matsue, this house is very traditional with its sliding glass and wood doors that open out onto a diorama of garden views. All inside rooms are tatami-matted, and a lovely arched window looks out onto a froggy lily pond.

Breakfast at Tiffany's
The Louis C. Tiffany Museum is another surprise. Overlooking Lake Shinji, this museum is devoted to that famous maker of Tiffany lamps and thus had me in thrall for an entire afternoon. The museum exhibits much of Tiffany's art nouveau furniture design, jewellery, vases, stained glass windows and lamps. There are even a few pieces by Lalique, who made some very spiffy dragonfly brooches! Here his bat-adorned fob watch is exhibited, which is very spooky looking. Other highlights are Tiffany's Deer Window, and Cobweb lamp. I must say I was totally ignorant of Tiffany's burgeoning art nouveau contribution, with the exception of his lamps, which are a household name. The exhibition also focuses on the influence that Japanese art and design exerted upon the Western art nouveau. The museum is also surrounded by English-style cottage gardens with Japanese touches. And to think it's a permanent museum - an absolute trove of art nouveau - here in country Japan! Most amazing!

I ended my tour with a visit to Japan's oldest and largest Shinto shrine - Izumo Taisha. Sir S and I wandered the grounds, listening to the clank and din of the old bell and watched red dragonflies alight on the shrine walls.

A blissful weekend! And I have left several art galleries unexplored!

* Thorpedo himself is plastered all over Japan's trains, buses and subways selling some swish hallucinogenic sports drink.

School Days

As a dedicated listmaker myself, I was highly amused to read this list by Richard Glover from the Herald, which recalls all the Important Bits from children's novels that one should keep in mind every day as an adult. I wish to Blytonise and add further:

• all midnight feasts must include tinned pineapple, tinned sardines, and lashings of ginger beer, as should picnics and packed lunches, especially if taken in the vicinity of Smugglers' Cove.
• if learning French, never fail to play a trick on Mademoiselle. Strange grey pellets that are stuck to the ceiling and from which distend great, rainbow-slick bubbles are highly recommended.
• Avoid all pale, pouty creatures by the name of Gwendoline.
• Some Spanish people have a circus-background and one should be cautious of their fickle temperament, especially if their complexion is dark and they are often spotted scowling. They are usually prone to burst into fits of backflips at any moment, so one has to always be on guard, especially if their name is Carlotta.
  
• Good girls generally grow up to become nurses or teachers.
• Only cowardly or slovenly girls whinge to Matron to get out of sports.
  
• If one is feeling damnably odd and cannot concentrate on one's maths exam or game of lacrosse, it's probably due to a bout of measles.
• In one's final year as a boarder, ensure you acquire a fag who will polish one's wooden desk in one's private study and tend to one's merrily burning fireplace.
• To liven up any party, a game of sardines is a must.
• Always make friends with the girls who have a boy's name, boy's hair-cut and a befreckled nose, because they are always good at sports and can be relied upon to get you out of a hairy situation involving smugglers or gypsies or robbers.
• Throughout life, it is best to socialise with a gang. Member numbers should be maintained at four, five, or seven, and gang names should be prefixed with adjectives "Adventurous", "Famous" or "Secret". An animal mascot is also recommended.